| Zou Li,Wang Aimin,Wang Zhen,Pei Yuguo,Liu Xiaolong. 2019. Experimental study of freak waves due to three-dimensional island terrain in random wave. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 38(6):92－99 |
| Experimental study of freak waves due to three-dimensional island terrain in random wave |
| 随机波浪中畸形波在三维岛礁地形上的试验研究 |
| Received:February 04, 2018 |
| DOI：10.1007/s13131-019-1390-x |
| Key words:freak waves random wave skewness and kurtosis three-dimensional island terrain |
| 中文关键词: 畸形波 随机波浪 偏度与峰度 三维岛礁地形 |
| 基金项目:The Qingdao National Laboratory for Marine Science and Technology under contract No. QNLM20160RP0402; the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 51522902 and 51579040; the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities under contract No. DUT17ZD233; the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology of China under contract No.[2016]22. |
| Author Name | Affiliation | E-mail | | Zou Li | School of Naval Architecture, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China
State Key Laboratory of Structural Analysis for Industrial Equipment, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China
Collaborative Innovation Center for Advanced Ship and Deep-Sea Exploration, Shanghai 200240, China | zoulidut@126.com | | Wang Aimin | School of Naval Architecture, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China | | | Wang Zhen | School of Mathematic Science, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China | | | Pei Yuguo | School of Naval Architecture, Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116024, China | | | Liu Xiaolong | China Ship Scientific Research Center, Wuxi 214082, China | |
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| Abstract: |
| An experimental study is carried out for waves passing an isolated reef terrain in a wave tank. A three-dimensional model of a representative and isolated reef terrain in the West Pacific is built. Random wave trains with various periods and wave heights are generated by a wave maker using the improved JONSWAP spectrum. It is observed that there are different kinds of generation processes and waveforms of freak waves. The freak wave factor Hm/Hs (where Hm is the maximum wave height of wave series, and Hs is significant wave height) is analyzed in detail, in terms of the skewness, kurtosis and water depth, as well as the relationship between freak wave height Hfr and skewness. The freak wave factor Hm/Hs is found to be in positive correlation with the kurtosis, while larger Hfr tends to be related with bigger skewness. The rapid variation of water depth, such as slope and seamount, contributes to the occurrence probability of freak waves. |
| 中文摘要: |
| 在试验水池中，开展了波浪在岛礁地形上演化问题的研究。首先在实验水池中建立了西太平洋某岛礁地形的模型，然后采用改进的JONSWAP谱，由造波机产生不同周期、波高的随机波浪。试验中观察到了不同类型畸形波生成的过程及不同波面形态的畸形波。对偏度、峰度及水深与畸形波要素Hm/Hs（Hm表示波列中的最大波高， Hs为有效波高）的关系进行了详细的分析，同时，对畸形波波高Hfr与偏度的关也进行了分析。通过对试验结果分析，发现峰度与畸形波要素i>Hm/Hs呈正相关， Hfr增大时相应的偏度也会呈现增大的趋势。此外，水深的变化剧烈时（如斜坡、海山位置）有助于畸形波的发生。 |
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