| MARIO Conde-Frias,LUIS Otero,JUAN Camilo Restrepo,JUAN Carlos Ortíz. 2017. Experimental analysis of infragravity waves in two eroded microtidal beaches. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 36(5):31－43 |
| Experimental analysis of infragravity waves in two eroded microtidal beaches |
| Experimental analysis of infragravity waves in two eroded microtidal beaches |
| Received:August 08, 2016 |
| DOI：10.1007/s13131-017-1054-7 |
| Key words:infragravity waves long waves experimental analysis fourier analysis wavelet transform |
| 中文关键词: infragravity waves long waves experimental analysis fourier analysis wavelet transform |
| 基金项目:The Program of Administrative Department of Science, Technology and Innovation under contract No. COLCIENCIAS 03932013. |
| Author Name | Affiliation | E-mail | | MARIO Conde-Frias | Geosciences Research Group GEO4, Department of Physics, Universidad del Norte, Barranquilla 081007, Colombia | mfrias@uninorte.edu.co | | LUIS Otero | Geosciences Research Group GEO4, Department of Physics, Universidad del Norte, Barranquilla 081007, Colombia | | | JUAN Camilo Restrepo | Geosciences Research Group GEO4, Department of Physics, Universidad del Norte, Barranquilla 081007, Colombia | | | JUAN Carlos Ortíz | Geosciences Research Group GEO4, Department of Physics, Universidad del Norte, Barranquilla 081007, Colombia | |
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| Abstract: |
| This work aims to contribute to the characterization and understanding of infragravity waves on two beaches with erosion problems. For this reason, we have used an array of ADCP and a pressure sensor to measure wave parameters and pressure inside and outside of the surf zone during the dry and rainy period in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar (both dissipative and eroded beaches) located in the Colombian Caribbean coast. Based on these measurements, we have carried out a spectral analysis in order to identify the frequency components that characterize the wave and its energy; thus, we identified the characteristic frequencies of infragravity waves to finally filter the infragravity signal on each beach in different seasonal periods. Among the results of the Welch spectrum applied to surface elevation time series, we found that, the frequencies' energy of the sea-swell band decreases due to bottom friction and wave breaking as the wave approaches the shore, while the frequencies' energy of the infragravity band increases significantly. In addition, for the wavelet analysis, we could observe how the energy of the infragravity band, especially the lowest frequencies gain energy as the waves approaches the coast. Furthermore, based on the infragravity wave obtained from the extreme wave event registered during the field campaign we can conclude that the contribution of this signal is important in the erosion problems presented in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar. Finally, these results show the need to realize other studies that allow us to understand deeply, the role of infragravity waves on the morphological changes that occurs in these beaches. |
| 中文摘要: |
| This work aims to contribute to the characterization and understanding of infragravity waves on two beaches with erosion problems. For this reason, we have used an array of ADCP and a pressure sensor to measure wave parameters and pressure inside and outside of the surf zone during the dry and rainy period in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar (both dissipative and eroded beaches) located in the Colombian Caribbean coast. Based on these measurements, we have carried out a spectral analysis in order to identify the frequency components that characterize the wave and its energy; thus, we identified the characteristic frequencies of infragravity waves to finally filter the infragravity signal on each beach in different seasonal periods. Among the results of the Welch spectrum applied to surface elevation time series, we found that, the frequencies' energy of the sea-swell band decreases due to bottom friction and wave breaking as the wave approaches the shore, while the frequencies' energy of the infragravity band increases significantly. In addition, for the wavelet analysis, we could observe how the energy of the infragravity band, especially the lowest frequencies gain energy as the waves approaches the coast. Furthermore, based on the infragravity wave obtained from the extreme wave event registered during the field campaign we can conclude that the contribution of this signal is important in the erosion problems presented in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar. Finally, these results show the need to realize other studies that allow us to understand deeply, the role of infragravity waves on the morphological changes that occurs in these beaches. |
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