| DMITRY Chalikov,ALEXANDER V. Babanin. 2016. Comparison of linear and nonlinear extreme wave statistics. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 35(5):99－105 |
| Comparison of linear and nonlinear extreme wave statistics |
| Comparison of linear and nonlinear extreme wave statistics |
| Received:August 27, 2015 Revised:March 21, 2016 |
| DOI：10.1007/s13131-016-0862-5 |
| Key words:freak waves numerical modeling probability of linear and nonlinear waves ensemble modeling |
| 中文关键词: freak waves numerical modeling probability of linear and nonlinear waves ensemble modeling |
| 基金项目:The Rissian Fund for Basic Research under contract No. #14-05-00422; Australian Research Council, Discovery under contract Nos DP1093349 and DP130100227. |
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| Abstract: |
| An extremely large (“freak”) wave is a typical though rare phenomenon observed in the sea. Special theories (for example, the modulation instability theory) were developed to explain mechanics and appearance of freak waves as a result of nonlinear wave-wave interactions. In this paper, it is demonstrated that the freak wave appearance can be also explained by superposition of linear modes with the realistic spectrum. The integral probability of trough-to-crest waves is calculated by two methods: the first one is based on the results of the numerical simulation of a wave field evolution performed with one-dimensional and two-dimensional nonlinear models. The second method is based on calculation of the same probability over the ensembles of wave fields constructed as a superposition of linear waves with random phases and the spectrum similar to that used in the nonlinear simulations. It is shown that the integral probabilities for nonlinear and linear cases are of the same order of values |
| 中文摘要: |
| An extremely large (“freak”) wave is a typical though rare phenomenon observed in the sea. Special theories (for example, the modulation instability theory) were developed to explain mechanics and appearance of freak waves as a result of nonlinear wave-wave interactions. In this paper, it is demonstrated that the freak wave appearance can be also explained by superposition of linear modes with the realistic spectrum. The integral probability of trough-to-crest waves is calculated by two methods: the first one is based on the results of the numerical simulation of a wave field evolution performed with one-dimensional and two-dimensional nonlinear models. The second method is based on calculation of the same probability over the ensembles of wave fields constructed as a superposition of linear waves with random phases and the spectrum similar to that used in the nonlinear simulations. It is shown that the integral probabilities for nonlinear and linear cases are of the same order of values |
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