| YANG Jiaxuan,LI Xunqiang,ZHU Shouxian,ZHANG Wenjing,WANG Lei. 2015. A new statistical model of wave heights based on the concept of wave breaking critical zone. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 34(5):81－85 |
| A new statistical model of wave heights based on the concept of wave breaking critical zone |
| 基于破碎临界区的新型拍岸浪统计计算模型研究 |
| Received:July 14, 2014 Revised:November 18, 2014 |
| DOI：10.1007/s13131-015-0670-3 |
| Key words:wave height statistical model surf breaking critical zone flume experiments |
| 中文关键词: 波高 统计计算模型 破碎前临界区 水槽实验 |
| 基金项目:The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 41076048 and 40906044. |
| Author Name | Affiliation | E-mail | | YANG Jiaxuan | Institute of Noise and Vibration, Naval University of Engineering, Wuhan 430033, China
Institute of Meteorology and Marine, PLA University of Science and Technology, Nanjing 210001, China
National Key Laboratory on Ship Vibration and Noise, Wuhan 430033, China | | | LI Xunqiang | Institute of Meteorology and Marine, PLA University of Science and Technology, Nanjing 210001, China | lixunqiang@sina.com | | ZHU Shouxian | College of Harbour, Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210098, China | | | ZHANG Wenjing | Institute of Meteorology and Marine, PLA University of Science and Technology, Nanjing 210001, China | | | WANG Lei | Institute of Meteorology and Marine, PLA University of Science and Technology, Nanjing 210001, China | |
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| Abstract: |
| When waves propagate from deep water to shallow water, wave heights and steepness increase and then waves roll back and break. This phenomenon is called surf. Currently, the present statistical calculation model of surf was derived mainly from the wave energy conservation equation and the linear wave dispersion relation, but it cannot reflect accurately the process which is a rapid increasing in wave height near the broken point. So, the concept of a surf breaking critical zone is presented. And the nearshore is divided as deep water zone, shallow water zone, surf breaking critical zone and after breaking zone. Besides, the calculation formula for the height of the surf breaking critical zone has founded based on flume experiments, thereby a new statistical calculation model on the surf has been established. Using the new model, the calculation error of wave height maximum is reduced from 17.62% to 6.43%. |
| 中文摘要: |
| 波浪传播到近岸时, 波高增大、波形不对称发展至倒卷和破碎的现象称为拍岸浪。目前拍岸浪统计计算模型主要采用能量守恒方程和线性波动频散关系式, 它不能较好地反映破碎点附近波高急剧增大的现象。本文提出拍岸浪破碎前临界区的概念, 将波浪向近岸传播的海区划分为深水区、浅水区、破碎前临界区和破碎后区, 并且进行波浪水槽实验, 基于水槽实验数据建立了破碎前临界区的波高计算公式, 从而得到新型拍岸浪统计计算模型。该模型对水槽实验拍岸浪的统计计算表明, 破碎波高的计算误差由17.62%降低到6.43%。 |
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