| TOKPOHOZIN N. B.,KOUNOUHEWA B.,AVOSSEVOU G. Y. H.,HOUEKPOHEHAM A.,AWANOU C. N.. 2015. Modelling of sediment movement in the surf and swash zones. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, 34(2):137－142 |
| Modelling of sediment movement in the surf and swash zones |
| Modelling of sediment movement in the surf and swash zones |
| Received:August 06, 2014 Revised:October 21, 2014 |
| DOI：10.1007/s13131-015-0610-2 |
| Key words:non-cohesive sediments sediment dynamics swell trajectory of sediment velocity drive |
| 中文关键词: non-cohesive sediments sediment dynamics swell trajectory of sediment velocity drive |
| 基金项目: |
| Author Name | Affiliation | E-mail | | TOKPOHOZIN N. B. | Institut de Mathé
matiques et de Sciences Physiques (IMSP/UAC), Porto-Novo Ré
p01BP 613, du Bé
nin
Centre Bé
ninois de la Recherche Scientifique et Technique (CBRST), Cotonou Ré
p 03BP 1665, du Bé
nin | donaelfreed@gmail.com | | KOUNOUHEWA B. | Centre Bé
ninois de la Recherche Scientifique et Technique (CBRST), Cotonou Ré
p 03BP 1665, du Bé
nin
Laboratoire de Physique du Rayonnement (LPR/FAST-UAC), Cotonou Ré
p 01BP 526, du Bé
nin | | | AVOSSEVOU G. Y. H. | Institut de Mathé
matiques et de Sciences Physiques (IMSP/UAC), Porto-Novo Ré
p01BP 613, du Bé
nin | | | HOUEKPOHEHAM A. | Institut de Mathé
matiques et de Sciences Physiques (IMSP/UAC), Porto-Novo Ré
p01BP 613, du Bé
nin
Centre Bé
ninois de la Recherche Scientifique et Technique (CBRST), Cotonou Ré
p 03BP 1665, du Bé
nin | | | AWANOU C. N. | Laboratoire de Physique du Rayonnement (LPR/FAST-UAC), Cotonou Ré
p 01BP 526, du Bé
nin | |
|
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| Abstract: |
| Under the action of marine currents, non-cohesive sediments evolve by bed-load, by saltation or suspension depending on their granulometry. Several authors have considered that the movement of sediment is bidimensional and modelized the effects of swell by a constant velocitynear the seabed. Here we have studied the velocity profile of fluctuating currents near the seabed and studied the movement of sediment in 3D. The results show that in the areas of study (surf and swash) the movement of sediment occurs in a volume, and the evolution of sediment varies from an areato another. The obtained theoretical profiles of the position and velocity vectors confirm the observations of several authors. |
| 中文摘要: |
| Under the action of marine currents, non-cohesive sediments evolve by bed-load, by saltation or suspension depending on their granulometry. Several authors have considered that the movement of sediment is bidimensional and modelized the effects of swell by a constant velocitynear the seabed. Here we have studied the velocity profile of fluctuating currents near the seabed and studied the movement of sediment in 3D. The results show that in the areas of study (surf and swash) the movement of sediment occurs in a volume, and the evolution of sediment varies from an areato another. The obtained theoretical profiles of the position and velocity vectors confirm the observations of several authors. |
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