| LI Benxia,YU Xiping. 2009. Wave decomposition phenomenon and spectrum evolution over submerged bars. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, (3):82－92 |
| Wave decomposition phenomenon and spectrum evolution over submerged bars |
| Wave decomposition phenomenon and spectrum evolution over submerged bars |
| Received:May 25, 2007 Revised:September 09, 2008 |
| DOI： |
| Key words:wave decomposition spectrum evolution nonlinear waves irregular waves submerged bars |
| 中文关键词: wave decomposition spectrum evolution nonlinear waves irregular waves submerged bars |
| 基金项目:The National Natural Science Foundation of China for Distinguished Young Scholars under contract No. 50025925 and the Chinese Postdoctoral Science Foundation under contract No. 20040350088. |
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| Abstract: |
| Wave decomposition phenomenon and spectrum evolution over submerged bars are investigated by a previously developed numerical model. First, the computed free surface displacements of regular waves at various locations are compared with the available experimental data to confirm the validity of the numerical model, and satisfactory agreements are obtained. In addition, variations of decomposition characteristics with incident wave parameters and the change of energy spectrum for regular waves are also studied. Then the spectrum evolution of irregular waves over submerged bars, as well as the influence of incident peak wave period and the steepness of the front slope of the bar on spectrum evolution, is investigated. Wave decomposition and spectral shape are found to be significantly influenced by the incident wave conditions. When the upslope of the bar becomes 1:2, the length of the slope becomes shorter and will not benefit the generation of high frequency energy, so spectrum evolution is not significant. |
| 中文摘要: |
| Wave decomposition phenomenon and spectrum evolution over submerged bars are investigated by a previously developed numerical model. First, the computed free surface displacements of regular waves at various locations are compared with the available experimental data to confirm the validity of the numerical model, and satisfactory agreements are obtained. In addition, variations of decomposition characteristics with incident wave parameters and the change of energy spectrum for regular waves are also studied. Then the spectrum evolution of irregular waves over submerged bars, as well as the influence of incident peak wave period and the steepness of the front slope of the bar on spectrum evolution, is investigated. Wave decomposition and spectral shape are found to be significantly influenced by the incident wave conditions. When the upslope of the bar becomes 1:2, the length of the slope becomes shorter and will not benefit the generation of high frequency energy, so spectrum evolution is not significant. |
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