| TANG Jun,SHEN Yongming,QIU Dahong. 2008. Numerical study of pollutant movement in waves and wave-induced long-shore currents in surf zone. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, (1):122－131 |
| Numerical study of pollutant movement in waves and wave-induced long-shore currents in surf zone |
| Numerical study of pollutant movement in waves and wave-induced long-shore currents in surf zone |
| Received:April 23, 2007 Revised:November 01, 2007 |
| DOI： |
| Key words:water waves hyperbolic mild-slope equation longshore currents pollutants |
| 中文关键词: water waves hyperbolic mild-slope equation longshore currents pollutants |
| 基金项目:The National Basic Research ("973") Program of China under contract No.2005CB724202;the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos.50709004 and 50779006. |
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| Abstract: |
| Water waves, wave-induced long-shore currents and movement of pollutants in waves and currents have been numerically studied based on the hyperbolic mild-slope equation, the shallow water equation, as well as the pollutant movement equation, and the numerical results have also been validated by experimental data. It is shown that the long-shore current velocity and wave set-up increase with the increasing incident wave amplitude and slope steepness of the shore plane; the wave set-up increases with the increasing incident wave period;and the pollutant morement proceeds more quiekly with the increasing incident wave amplitude and slope steepness of the shore palane. In surf zones, the long-shore currents induced by the inclined incident waves have effectively affected the pollutant movement. |
| 中文摘要: |
| Water waves, wave-induced long-shore currents and movement of pollutants in waves and currents have been numerically studied based on the hyperbolic mild-slope equation, the shallow water equation, as well as the pollutant movement equation, and the numerical results have also been validated by experimental data. It is shown that the long-shore current velocity and wave set-up increase with the increasing incident wave amplitude and slope steepness of the shore plane; the wave set-up increases with the increasing incident wave period;and the pollutant morement proceeds more quiekly with the increasing incident wave amplitude and slope steepness of the shore palane. In surf zones, the long-shore currents induced by the inclined incident waves have effectively affected the pollutant movement. |
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