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Liu Xin'an Huang Peiji,Chen Xueying,Hu Zejian. 1998. A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, (2):155－165
A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves
A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves
Received:October 15, 1996  Revised:August 28, 1997
DOI：
Key words:Shoaling  random waves  nonlinear model
中文关键词:  Shoaling  random waves  nonlinear model
基金项目:This work was supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No. 49478272, 49606071, and by the Marine Science Foundation of SOA for Youth under contract No. 95409.
Author NameAffiliation
Liu Xin'an Huang Peiji First Institute of Oceanography, State Oceanic Administration, Qingdao 266003, China 
Chen Xueying First Institute of Oceanography, State Oceanic Administration, Qingdao 266003, China 
Hu Zejian First Institute of Oceanography, State Oceanic Administration, Qingdao 266003, China 
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Abstract:
      In this paper,the spatial evolution of the third-order moment (i.e.,the skewness) of the sea surface elevalion for nonbreaking shoaling random waves versus Hs/d is analyzed by using the data obtained in field and laboratory. Using the empirical relationship given in this paper, the nonlinear model for the sea surlace elevation of nonbreaking shoaling waves in the sernnd-order approximation by expanding the first two terms of Hermitian polynomial is depicted by the parameter Hs/d, and such characteristics as the power spectrum, the bispectrum and the distribution function of sea surface elevation es well have been derived in this paper. The correlation between the skewness and the kurtosis of the sea surface elevation is also discussed.
中文摘要:
      In this paper,the spatial evolution of the third-order moment (i.e.,the skewness) of the sea surface elevalion for nonbreaking shoaling random waves versus Hs/d is analyzed by using the data obtained in field and laboratory. Using the empirical relationship given in this paper, the nonlinear model for the sea surlace elevation of nonbreaking shoaling waves in the sernnd-order approximation by expanding the first two terms of Hermitian polynomial is depicted by the parameter Hs/d, and such characteristics as the power spectrum, the bispectrum and the distribution function of sea surface elevation es well have been derived in this paper. The correlation between the skewness and the kurtosis of the sea surface elevation is also discussed.
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