| Li Shaowu,Wang Shangyi,Tomoya Shibayama. 1998. A nearshore wave breaking model. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, (1):121－132 |
| A nearshore wave breaking model |
| A nearshore wave breaking model |
| Received:October 08, 1996 Revised:February 26, 1997 |
| DOI： |
| Key words:Boussinesq equations wave breaking eddy viscous coefficient |
| 中文关键词: Boussinesq equations wave breaking eddy viscous coefficient |
| 基金项目: |
| Author Name | Affiliation | | Li Shaowu | Department of Water Resource and Harbor Engineering, Tianjin University, Tianjin 300072, China | | Wang Shangyi | Department of Water Resource and Harbor Engineering, Tianjin University, Tianjin 300072, China | | Tomoya Shibayama | Department of Civil Engineering, Engineering Faculty, Yokohama National University, Yokohama 240, Japan |
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| Abstract: |
| A wave breaking model is proposed on the basis of turbulent energy equation and the relationship of energy dissipation due to wave breaking en the surf zone.The model is established by introducing turbulent dissipation terms into the Iioussinesq equations and involves the breaking process of individual wave.The model is verified by experiment data in terms of wave height and mean surface elevation.Good agreements are obtained. |
| 中文摘要: |
| A wave breaking model is proposed on the basis of turbulent energy equation and the relationship of energy dissipation due to wave breaking en the surf zone.The model is established by introducing turbulent dissipation terms into the Iioussinesq equations and involves the breaking process of individual wave.The model is verified by experiment data in terms of wave height and mean surface elevation.Good agreements are obtained. |
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