| Li Yucheng. 1996. The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, (2):261－272 |
| The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water |
| The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water |
| Received:November 05, 1995 Revised:November 29, 1995 |
| DOI： |
| Key words:Wave transformation wave breaking directional wave spectrum |
| 中文关键词: Wave transformation wave breaking directional wave spectrum |
| 基金项目: |
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| Abstract: |
| Based on the principle of wave action flux conservation,the following problems are analyzed in the present study: the transformation of wave and wave spectrum in currents,the change of current velocity profile alongside water depth due to the existence of waves,the breaking criteria of irregular waves,a new hybrid method for the analysis of wave transformation and breaking on slope,the VOF mehtod for calculating broken waves and the transformation of directional wave spectrum in currents. |
| 中文摘要: |
| Based on the principle of wave action flux conservation,the following problems are analyzed in the present study: the transformation of wave and wave spectrum in currents,the change of current velocity profile alongside water depth due to the existence of waves,the breaking criteria of irregular waves,a new hybrid method for the analysis of wave transformation and breaking on slope,the VOF mehtod for calculating broken waves and the transformation of directional wave spectrum in currents. |
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