| Liu Xin'an,Huang Peiji. 1993. The retrieval of the nonlinear random waves from the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, (4):499－510 |
| The retrieval of the nonlinear random waves from the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution |
| The retrieval of the nonlinear random waves from the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution |
| Received:November 15, 1992 Revised:January 20, 1993 |
| DOI： |
| Key words:Non-Gaussian characteristic retrieval nonlinear random waves sea surface elevation distribution |
| 中文关键词: Non-Gaussian characteristic retrieval nonlinear random waves sea surface elevation distribution |
| 基金项目: |
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| Abstract: |
| In this paper, without recourse to the nonlinear dynamical equations of the waves, the nonlinear random waves are retrieved from the non-Gaussian characteristic of the sea surface elevation distribution.The question of coincidence of the nonlinear wave profile, spectrum and its distributions of maximum (or minimum) values of the sea surface elevation with results derived from some existing nonlinear theories is expounded under the narrow-band spectrum condition.Taking the shoaling sea wave as an example, the nonlinear random wave process and its spectrum in shallow water are retrieved from both the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution in shallow water and the normal sea waves in deep water and compared with the values actually measured.Results show that they can coincide with the actually measured values quite well, thus, this can confirm that the method proposed in this paper is feasible. |
| 中文摘要: |
| In this paper, without recourse to the nonlinear dynamical equations of the waves, the nonlinear random waves are retrieved from the non-Gaussian characteristic of the sea surface elevation distribution.The question of coincidence of the nonlinear wave profile, spectrum and its distributions of maximum (or minimum) values of the sea surface elevation with results derived from some existing nonlinear theories is expounded under the narrow-band spectrum condition.Taking the shoaling sea wave as an example, the nonlinear random wave process and its spectrum in shallow water are retrieved from both the non-Gaussian characteristics of the sea surface elevation distribution in shallow water and the normal sea waves in deep water and compared with the values actually measured.Results show that they can coincide with the actually measured values quite well, thus, this can confirm that the method proposed in this paper is feasible. |
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