| Wen Shengchang(S. C. Wen),Guo Peifang,Zhang Dacuo,Chen Bohai. 1988. Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, (3):325－343 |
| Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water |
| Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water |
| Received:September 10, 1987 Revised:November 20, 1987 |
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| Author Name | Affiliation | | Wen Shengchang(S. C. Wen) | Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China | | Guo Peifang | Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China | | Zhang Dacuo | Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China | | Chen Bohai | Institute of Physical Oceanography, Shandong College of Oceanography, Qingdao, China |
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| Abstract: |
| The method developed by Wen et al. (1988a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well. |
| 中文摘要: |
| The method developed by Wen et al. (1988a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well. |
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