| SUN FU. 1987. PROPAGATION AND TRANSFORMATION OF NON-LINEAR WAVES ON UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACHES Ⅱ. BREAKING OF WAVES. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, (2):169－176 |
| PROPAGATION AND TRANSFORMATION OF NON-LINEAR WAVES ON UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACHES Ⅱ. BREAKING OF WAVES |
| PROPAGATION AND TRANSFORMATION OF NON-LINEAR WAVES ON UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACHES Ⅱ. BREAKING OF WAVES |
| Received:May 13, 1985 Revised:October 25, 1985 |
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| Abstract: |
| In this paper, a systematic discussion based on the theory proposed in the preceding paper[1] is given for such breaking characteristics on sloping beaches as breaking depths and breaker heights. Through introducing two empirical constants and considering the complicatedness of the subject studied, the final results are in good agreement with observations. Further experimental verification and theoretical study are necessary. |
| 中文摘要: |
| In this paper, a systematic discussion based on the theory proposed in the preceding paper[1] is given for such breaking characteristics on sloping beaches as breaking depths and breaker heights. Through introducing two empirical constants and considering the complicatedness of the subject studied, the final results are in good agreement with observations. Further experimental verification and theoretical study are necessary. |
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