| SUN FU. 1987. PROPAGATION AND TRANSFORMATION OF NON-LINEAR WAVES ON UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACHES Ⅰ. A SOLUTION FOR NON-LINEAR PROGRESSING WAVES. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, (1):8－19 |
| PROPAGATION AND TRANSFORMATION OF NON-LINEAR WAVES ON UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACHES Ⅰ. A SOLUTION FOR NON-LINEAR PROGRESSING WAVES |
| PROPAGATION AND TRANSFORMATION OF NON-LINEAR WAVES ON UNIFORMLY SLOPING BEACHES Ⅰ. A SOLUTION FOR NON-LINEAR PROGRESSING WAVES |
| Received:May 13, 1985 Revised:October 24, 1985 |
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| Abstract: |
| Two-dimensional non-linear hydrodynamical equations are solved by using perturbation method and treating slopping beaches as bottom boundary conditions so that a kind of solution for nonlinear progressing waves is obtained.The first order of approximation is the same potential function as used by Biesel, and the second order is calculated numerically.Based on the solution, wave characteristics before breaking, especially the wave set-down, are discussed.It turns out that for the whole course of waves propagating from deep to shallow waters the theory proposed in this paper has a wider valid range of application than others. |
| 中文摘要: |
| Two-dimensional non-linear hydrodynamical equations are solved by using perturbation method and treating slopping beaches as bottom boundary conditions so that a kind of solution for nonlinear progressing waves is obtained.The first order of approximation is the same potential function as used by Biesel, and the second order is calculated numerically.Based on the solution, wave characteristics before breaking, especially the wave set-down, are discussed.It turns out that for the whole course of waves propagating from deep to shallow waters the theory proposed in this paper has a wider valid range of application than others. |
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