| HU DINGMING. 1986. ANALYTICAL SOLUTION FOR THE VELOCITY POTENTIAL OF LINEAR WAVES OVER SLOPING BEACHES. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, (1):1－14 |
| ANALYTICAL SOLUTION FOR THE VELOCITY POTENTIAL OF LINEAR WAVES OVER SLOPING BEACHES |
| ANALYTICAL SOLUTION FOR THE VELOCITY POTENTIAL OF LINEAR WAVES OVER SLOPING BEACHES |
| Received:September 15, 1984 Revised:January 18, 1985 |
| DOI： |
| Key words: |
| 中文关键词: |
| 基金项目: |
|
| Hits: 787 |
| Download times: 600 |
| Abstract: |
| An analytical solution for the velocity potential of linear waves traveling over sloping beaches is obtained in the present paper, the restriction to the solution, i.e.the cube of bottom slope α being negligible.When the terms of order of α2 are neglected, the solution is the same as that presented by Biesel in 1951[1].When the terms of order of α2 are retained, the wave dispersion relation is corrected.Forthermore, the solution corrected to any higher order of α can be obtained without difficulty by means of the disturbation method given by this paper1). |
| 中文摘要: |
| An analytical solution for the velocity potential of linear waves traveling over sloping beaches is obtained in the present paper, the restriction to the solution, i.e.the cube of bottom slope α being negligible.When the terms of order of α2 are neglected, the solution is the same as that presented by Biesel in 1951[1].When the terms of order of α2 are retained, the wave dispersion relation is corrected.Forthermore, the solution corrected to any higher order of α can be obtained without difficulty by means of the disturbation method given by this paper1). |
|
HTML
View Full Text
View/Add Comment Download reader |
| Close |
