| CAO ZUDE. 1983. EFFECTS OF WIND ON THE WAVE ADVANCING TOWARDS SHORE. Acta Oceanologica Sinica, (2):178－189 |
| EFFECTS OF WIND ON THE WAVE ADVANCING TOWARDS SHORE |
| EFFECTS OF WIND ON THE WAVE ADVANCING TOWARDS SHORE |
| Received:September 08, 1981 |
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| Abstract: |
| The effects of wind on wave propagation in shallow water are approached in this paper. The equations for calculating wave elements in shallow water are derived by the law of wave refraction and the equation of wave energy flux. The numerical results calculated by the electronic computer show that under the influence of wind, the wave elements, wave direction angle and the conditions of wave breaker change greatly. Consequently, the effects of wind on the water wave propagating in shallow water need to be considered in practice. |
| 中文摘要: |
| The effects of wind on wave propagation in shallow water are approached in this paper. The equations for calculating wave elements in shallow water are derived by the law of wave refraction and the equation of wave energy flux. The numerical results calculated by the electronic computer show that under the influence of wind, the wave elements, wave direction angle and the conditions of wave breaker change greatly. Consequently, the effects of wind on the water wave propagating in shallow water need to be considered in practice. |
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