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LI Benxia,YU Xiping.Wave decomposition phenomenon and spectrum evolution over submerged bars[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,2009,(3):82-92
Wave decomposition phenomenon and spectrum evolution over submerged bars
Wave decomposition phenomenon and spectrum evolution over submerged bars
投稿时间:2007-05-25  修订日期:2008-09-09
DOI:
中文关键词:  wave decomposition  spectrum evolution  nonlinear waves  irregular waves  submerged bars
英文关键词:wave decomposition  spectrum evolution  nonlinear waves  irregular waves  submerged bars
基金项目:The National Natural Science Foundation of China for Distinguished Young Scholars under contract No. 50025925 and the Chinese Postdoctoral Science Foundation under contract No. 20040350088.
作者单位E-mail
LI Benxia National Marine Environmental Forecasting Center, State Oceanic Administration, Beijing 100081, China lbx@nmefc.gov.cn 
YU Xiping Department of Hydraulic Engineering, Tsinghua University, Beijing 100084, China  
摘要点击次数: 716
全文下载次数: 677
中文摘要:
      Wave decomposition phenomenon and spectrum evolution over submerged bars are investigated by a previously developed numerical model. First, the computed free surface displacements of regular waves at various locations are compared with the available experimental data to confirm the validity of the numerical model, and satisfactory agreements are obtained. In addition, variations of decomposition characteristics with incident wave parameters and the change of energy spectrum for regular waves are also studied. Then the spectrum evolution of irregular waves over submerged bars, as well as the influence of incident peak wave period and the steepness of the front slope of the bar on spectrum evolution, is investigated. Wave decomposition and spectral shape are found to be significantly influenced by the incident wave conditions. When the upslope of the bar becomes 1:2, the length of the slope becomes shorter and will not benefit the generation of high frequency energy, so spectrum evolution is not significant.
英文摘要:
      Wave decomposition phenomenon and spectrum evolution over submerged bars are investigated by a previously developed numerical model. First, the computed free surface displacements of regular waves at various locations are compared with the available experimental data to confirm the validity of the numerical model, and satisfactory agreements are obtained. In addition, variations of decomposition characteristics with incident wave parameters and the change of energy spectrum for regular waves are also studied. Then the spectrum evolution of irregular waves over submerged bars, as well as the influence of incident peak wave period and the steepness of the front slope of the bar on spectrum evolution, is investigated. Wave decomposition and spectral shape are found to be significantly influenced by the incident wave conditions. When the upslope of the bar becomes 1:2, the length of the slope becomes shorter and will not benefit the generation of high frequency energy, so spectrum evolution is not significant.
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