| Li Yucheng.The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,1996,(2):261-272 |
| The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water |
| The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water |
| 投稿时间：1995-11-05 修订日期：1995-11-29 |
| DOI： |
| 中文关键词: Wave transformation wave breaking directional wave spectrum |
| 英文关键词:Wave transformation wave breaking directional wave spectrum |
| 基金项目: |
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| 摘要点击次数: 709 |
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| 中文摘要: |
| Based on the principle of wave action flux conservation,the following problems are analyzed in the present study: the transformation of wave and wave spectrum in currents,the change of current velocity profile alongside water depth due to the existence of waves,the breaking criteria of irregular waves,a new hybrid method for the analysis of wave transformation and breaking on slope,the VOF mehtod for calculating broken waves and the transformation of directional wave spectrum in currents. |
| 英文摘要: |
| Based on the principle of wave action flux conservation,the following problems are analyzed in the present study: the transformation of wave and wave spectrum in currents,the change of current velocity profile alongside water depth due to the existence of waves,the breaking criteria of irregular waves,a new hybrid method for the analysis of wave transformation and breaking on slope,the VOF mehtod for calculating broken waves and the transformation of directional wave spectrum in currents. |
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