| HU DINGMING.ANALYTICAL SOLUTION FOR THE VELOCITY POTENTIAL OF LINEAR WAVES OVER SLOPING BEACHES[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,1986,(1):1-14 |
| ANALYTICAL SOLUTION FOR THE VELOCITY POTENTIAL OF LINEAR WAVES OVER SLOPING BEACHES |
| ANALYTICAL SOLUTION FOR THE VELOCITY POTENTIAL OF LINEAR WAVES OVER SLOPING BEACHES |
| 投稿时间：1984-09-15 修订日期：1985-01-18 |
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| 中文摘要: |
| An analytical solution for the velocity potential of linear waves traveling over sloping beaches is obtained in the present paper, the restriction to the solution, i.e.the cube of bottom slope α being negligible.When the terms of order of α2 are neglected, the solution is the same as that presented by Biesel in 1951[1].When the terms of order of α2 are retained, the wave dispersion relation is corrected.Forthermore, the solution corrected to any higher order of α can be obtained without difficulty by means of the disturbation method given by this paper1). |
| 英文摘要: |
| An analytical solution for the velocity potential of linear waves traveling over sloping beaches is obtained in the present paper, the restriction to the solution, i.e.the cube of bottom slope α being negligible.When the terms of order of α2 are neglected, the solution is the same as that presented by Biesel in 1951[1].When the terms of order of α2 are retained, the wave dispersion relation is corrected.Forthermore, the solution corrected to any higher order of α can be obtained without difficulty by means of the disturbation method given by this paper1). |
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